Humane Society of Lawton-Comanche County
Dog Care Tips

Congratulations on your adoption! Thank you for making the compassionate choice to adopt your dog from the Humane Society of Lawton-Comanche County. This adoption is a turning point in your new dog's life! Whatever stories your dog could tell you about it's past, the best one begins today as he/she goes home with you! While your dog was our guest, we did everything we could to keep your dog happy and healthy. Now it's up to you, but we want to send you off with some tips we have found to be helpful to families with new pets. ​

​The First Day With Your Adopted Dog
To be successful in transitioning your new dog to his new home, here are some tips for the first day.

• Go Home – when you pick your new dog up, go straight home. It can be tempting to visit with friends or family to show off your new dog or to stop for supplies at the pet store, but it is better for the dog to go straight home.  Adopting is exciting but your new dog may be a little unsure of what is ahead of him.  Go home, have some quiet time, and allow him to explore his new surroundings before asking him to have more interactions with new people (and new environments) than is necessary. 
• Outside First – upon arriving home, walk your new dog around outside on leash until he urinates and defecates. Praise him when he eliminates outside.
• Use the Leash – It is imperative that the dog remain on leash in the car, in the neighborhood, and in the back yard while the dog learns about his new home and you (his new person). Hold tightly to the end of the leash and be prepared for the possibility the dog might attempt to bolt out of open doors.
• Slow introductions – it can be helpful to leave the leash on the dog while he explores the new home, the leash can be removed once the dog has settled a bit and you feel comfortable. Will he be allowed up on the furniture?  Many families want their dog to be able to sit with them on the couch but if your family has different rules, take ahold of the leash and tell him "off" while applying light leash pressure to help him understand to get off the furniture. Your new dog should also be introduced to other family members slowly and calmly, ideally one at a time, so that he can get to know the sight and scent of each person without being overwhelmed.  
• Diet - Don't be surprised if some dogs don't eat the first day or two as the stress of changing homes may cause their appetite to decrease.  Add some canned food to their kibble to entice them, but it's ok if they wait a day or two before eating, as long as they are drinking and active.
• Bedtime - Dogs generally like to "den up" with their owners.  If you have room, he is most likely to be comfortable sleeping in a bedroom with you.  This doesn't mean he has to sleep in your bed (unless you'd like him to), but a dog bed by your bed will be welcomed.  If you've adopted a puppy or prefer a crate, move the crate into your room and put your dog in the crate when you go to bed.

Don't worry if your dog behaves differently than you anticipated the day you bring him home.  Your dog doesn't know that this is home yet and will need time to get to know you and your expectations and for you to get to know your dog and your dog's preferences.  Be patient.  The specialness of a bond with your new canine companion will likely take time.  ​

The First Few Weeks At Home
Introducing Your New Dog to Other Animals

• If you have another dog in your home, then they may have met during the adoption process before going home.  Be advised that the dog meets we do are not a guarantee of how things will go once in the home.  Some dogs will play well with other dogs outside of the home but once back home, do not share their people, their toys, their food, or even space.  These situations can be very hard to manage.  
• Be sure you have removed all toys and bones from the living space both inside and outside.  Feed dogs far apart from each other and supervise until both are done eating.  It is normal canine behavior to not share food type items.
• Even if the new and resident dogs seem to be getting along just fine, it is important to separate them when you cannot supervise.  Things like the door bell ringing or a squirrel seen outside the window, can cause an argument to happen that might not happen otherwise.  If you are home during these times, you can interrupt the behavior and keep everyone safe.  Until you have a chance to observe the dogs together for several weeks, at a minimum, they should be separated when you leave.
• If you have a cat in your home, it may be very unhappy about the new dog you just brought home.  Give your cat some time to get used to the "intruder".  Giving your cat plenty of high spaces to observe the dog, and opportunities to move away, will help her feel more comfortable.  Never leave your new dog and cat together unsupervised.  Confine one or the other until they have had several weeks of living together and you have observed safe interactions.  
• If you are unsure about the interactions between your new dog and other animals, don't hesitate to give us a call.  We are here to help.

Introducing your New Dog to Other People

• It is human nature to want to pet and touch dogs and show our love.  However, not all dogs are comfortable with new people approaching.  As owners, it is our responsibility to be our dog's protector and educate others how to say hello to our dog.  Always watch your dog for what he wants.  Does he want to say hello to new people?  Or is he moving away?  Sometimes the simple act of moving away, or even not going forward to say hello, is the dog's best way of saying "no, thank you".  Ask visitors to respect your dog's wishes.  If your dog approaches a new person, with loose wiggly body posture, give the visitor a treat and have them ask the dog to sit, then offer the treat.  Or, have the visitor toss the dog a treat to "catch".  
• On that same note, a hug is a wonderful way for humans to express affection, but dog language holds a different meaning.  Hugging a dog that you know well, and who knows you well, may be just fine.  Hugging a dog who doesn't know you very well, is generally not a good idea.  Safest to teach children that hugs are meant for people, not for dogs.  
• Teach your children how to be appropriate with dogs.  Children should leave a dog alone who is eating or who has a bone.  Children should never be allowed to go in a dog's crate or on a dog's bed.  And, of course, teach your child how to pet and never pull, lay on, or step on a dog.  If you cannot supervise your child with your dog, put the dog in a crate and keep everyone safe.

Inside the New Home

• The transition to a new home can be immediate or may legitimately take several months.  Like us, dogs are individuals.  They need to learn what your expectations are and you need to learn his needs and preferences and you both need to learn how to communicate with each other.Do you allow your dogs on the furniture with you?  As long as all the animals in the home (2- and 4-legged) can amicably share the couch, the bed, or other furniture together, there is no problem with allowing them to do so.  Many people enjoy having the dog(s) cuddle on the couch with them or in their bed.  However, if any of the 4-legged animals is not nice to another 2- or 4-legged animal while on the couch, off he goes!  No furniture privileges unless everyone is respectful to the other.
• If family rules state no dogs on the couch, let the dog drag a leash while in the house for the first day or two.  If your dog jumps up on the couch, simply take the end of the leash, walk away from the couch while calmly repeating the word "off".  Don't pull or push the dog off.  You will likely need to repeat this just a few times, so be patient.  Soon, the word "off" should be enough without needing the leash.
• Housetraining will likely be something that you will need to address with your new companion.  

Outside the New Home

• The backyard is a fun but dangerous place for a new dog.  Be watchful the first few weeks after bringing home your new dog.  Walk along the fenceline yourself and look for ways for your new dog to get out of the yard.  He may be perfectly happy with you as his new owner, but boy are there a lot of good smells on the other side of that fence!  Are there stacks of firewood, or a table, or other "step stool" near the fence that will allow him to get up and over?  Is the fence secure with no loose boards?  Are there areas under the fence where the ground is lower and the dog can squeeze under?  Take the time to look for these access areas and also observe your dog while in the yard to make sure he does not go on any adventures on his own.

Health Care

• Your adopted dog received several vaccinations before adoption:  Distemper combination that includes Parvo, Adenovirus, Parainfluenza; also a Bordetella vaccine (also known as Kennel Cough).  If your dog is over 12 weeks of age, he should have also received a rabies vaccine.  There are a few different reasons why he may not have received a rabies however, and if so, he will have gone home with a voucher valid for a rabies vaccine from our Veterinary partners.  It is important to bring him to the Veterinarian and get that rabies vaccine done as soon as indicated on your voucher. Your dog will have also received an oral de-wormer and may have received a heartworm test if old enough.
• Although your new dog has received an examination from our veterinary team, it is always possible that there are health concerns of which we were unaware.  In addition, symptoms of some illnesses can begin as soon as you bring your dog home simply due to the change in environment.  If you notice lethargy, diarrhea, nasal discharge, coughing, vomiting, or other signs that cause you to question his wellbeing, please make an appointment with your veterinarian right away.  

If you or your veterinarian have any questions about the health care your dog received during it's stay with the Humane Society, please feel free to contact us and we will be glad to help

​Housetraining Your New Dog
It is always a good idea to visit your veterinarian to determine if your dog or puppy’s housetraining issues are caused by a medical problem.  Some common medical problems which can cause soiling in the house include urinary tract infection, gastrointestinal upset, changes in diet along with many others.
 Below are some common, easy steps to take to housetrain your new dog.  For more information visit the ASPCA virtual behaviorist at http://www.aspca.org/Pet-care/virtual-pet-behaviorist 
 
Housetraining Tips

• Keep your dog on a consistent feeding schedule and a consistent and frequent potty break schedule.
• Know where your dog is at all times – if your dog tends to go out of sight to eliminate in the house, consider “umbilical cord training” (using a leash to tether your dog to you so that they can not go out of your sight.)
• Watch for signs that your dog needs to go outside, signs might include pacing, whining, circling, sniffing or leaving the room – encourage these signs of asking to go outside.
• If you can not watch your dog, confine him/her to a crate for up to 5 hours.  (See "Crate Training" for more information on acclimating your new dog to a crate)
• Go outside with your dog and reward him/her for eliminating outside.
• If you catch your dog in the act of eliminating in the house, clap loudly to startle your dog (they should stop), calmly with no anger, and immediately take him/her outside.  Praise when they finish eliminating outside.
• Clean accidents with an enzymatic cleaner to minimize odors that might attract your dog to eliminate in the same spot again.
• If you dog is pottying in the same spot in the house, sometimes it is helpful to place their food or water in that area since most dogs do not like to eliminate near their food.

What Not to Do

• Do not rub your dog’s nose in the waste
• Do not scold your dog for eliminating in the house, this might encourage them to sneak away from you to eliminate in other areas of the house.
• Do not physically punish your dog for accidents in the house.  This has the likelihood to backfire and make the situation worse.
• Do not crate your dog if he/she eliminates in the crate, this creates a habit of soiling a sleeping area and makes it harder to housetrain your dog.
• Do not use ammonia based cleaners for housetraining accidents.

Crate Training Tips
Ever notice how many dogs choose to sleep under something like a table, or curled up in a ball with their shoulder bolstered into a corner? This is because all dogs are, by nature, den animals. Crates can be an excellent way to provide a den for your dog – a safe, quite place to “turn off” and have a break from light, sound and stimuli. Because a crate is an artificial den, it may take some training to help your dog recognize it as a safe comfortable place to seek refuge. A VERY helpful tool for crate training is having a classically conditioned marker – like a clicker – so that you can mark moments when your dog is being calm in the crate from a distance, even when you’re out of the room. 

Some suggestions to consider when purchasing a crate:
Remember that first and foremost the crate is a den – it should not be an expansive space – but rather, just large enough for your dog to stand up, turn around in and lay comfortably in – it should not be large enough for you dog to “potty” in or run circles in. *This can be a tough concept for us humans to accept, as we tend to be claustrophobic and the idea of being in a crate of any size is upsetting – remember, dog’s see the world very differently from us, and a snug, cozy den, when introduced properly, can provide security and comfort.  

​Choosing a Crate
There are many different kinds of dog crates: soft/fabric, wire, designer wood and hard plastic/airline crates are the most commonly seen. The safest crate for most any dog to be left alone in is a hard plastic/airline crate. Not only does this provide the most authentic den experience, it has proven to be challenging to escape from and is least likely to injure your dog if he/she panics and tries to escape. These hard plastic/airline crates come with either two finger squeeze latches or a dial latch – both are very secure, however the dial latch is recommend for the determined escape artist.

• Hard Plastic/Airline Crate – The best choice for dog’s with separation anxiety, escape tendencies or those being “house trained”. 
• Wire Crate – NOT recommended for dog’s with Separation Anxiety or strong escape tendencies. More portable/storable than Hard Plastic/Airline crates. 
• Soft Crate – NOT recommended for use with puppies, chewers, dogs with separation anxiety or tendency to escape.

The crate should be located in a quiet, well ventilated, low traffic part of the home. The front/back door, in a closet or in the basement are NOT ideal locations– a bedroom or the family room (if it’s not too high traffic or noisy) are good places to consider – think about a place where you would want to unwind at the end of a hectic day.

Introducing The Crate
Ideally, all dogs would be introduced to the crate as young puppies, but we don’t always have that luxury, but the principles are fundamentally the same when introducing the crate to any dog, regardless of age or previous experiences. 

• Begin by feeding all meals in the crate with the door left open. Measure out the amount of food your dog is fed each day and spread it out over several scheduled meals (2-4) through out the day. Put the food dish towards the back of the crate so that your dog must walk all the way in by him/herself to eat the meal – remember to leave the door open! If your dog has a strong aversion to the crate and chooses to ignore the meal to avoid going in the crate, leave the food in there for 30 minuets, giving the dog plenty of time to make up his/her mind. If he/she chooses not to enter the crate to eat during that 30 minutes, then removed food and DO NOT feed the dog until the next scheduled feeding. Do not worry about him/her missing a few meals (even if he/she is a puppy) – he will eat when he is hungry enough.  
• If your dog is completely ok with going into the crate to eat his meals, you may also periodically toss a few treats or toys into the crate through out the day, allowing him to go in and out freely. 
• Hide bits of food and/or toys in the crate (under a mat or towel) when he isn’t looking so when they do go in, they find surprise and good things! 
• Once your dog is comfortable coming and going from the crate with the door left open (this could be in a matter of 1 -2 days, or weeks for some dogs), you may begin to calmly and nonchalantly close the door while he is inside for short periods of time at first – just a few  moments without latching it, working up to several minutes with it latched (it is important that your dog is accustomed to the odd sound of the latch opening and closing) Toss treats through the openings in the BACK (not through the door) of the crate if your dog is calm and relaxed. If your dog becomes anxious, wait for him/her to settle, then toss a treat in the back and open the door. Teach him that being calm in the crate is the only way to get the door to open. 
• Teach him not to bolt out of the door when it opens: Open the door quickly – if he makes a move, close it quickly again – wait for him to sit, or settle, then re-open quickly and repeat until the dog chooses to wait for you to call him out (vs. just assuming he may bolt out). *This is a process that does require some technique – please consider contacting a professional trainer to learn more about this exercise if your dog tends to bolt out of the crate. 
• Before ever leaving your dog crate while you are away from home, start by leaving him crated while you are home and nearby – while your doing laundry, or watching TV – don’t forget that you are still training your dog, and remember to reward him often if he’s being calm in the crate while you move about the house. Eventually graduate to going outside for short periods of time (just half a minute or less at first). At this point in training, especially if your dog suffers from separation anxiety, it is all about trust – do not assume, because your dog is ok in the crate while you grab the mail, that he will also be ok with you going grocery shopping – work up to this by being outside of the house, but in a place where you can “spy” on your dog for slowly increasing amounts of time. 
• While you are acclimating your dog to the crate and especially once you have graduated to the point of your dog being comfortable in the crate for 30-40 minutes, consider providing mental enrichment - such as a stuffed frozen KONG toy. You may even consider feeding your dog his meals through a frozen KONG, which can keep him occupied for hours. Below are some tips for stuffing a KONG so that meals can last as long as possible. **If your dog is a powerful chewer, supervise your dog with any toy for a long period of time before ever leaving him unattended with it. **We NEVER recommend leaving your dog in a crate for more than 4-5 hours, maximum during the day and/or while you are not home. If your dog sleeps in his crate over night, it is ok to reach 8-9 hours.  

 KONG stuffing tips

• Fill KONG toy 2/3 full with your dog’s regular kibble.
• Add a layer of something extra yummy bits of cooked chicken, cooked lean ground beef, canned pumpkin, canned dog food or non-fat yogurt.
• “Seal” the top with peanut butter and/or a Milkbone type treat
• Freeze overnight *It’s a smart idea to have 2-3 prepared Kongs in the freezer ready to go. 

 
Helping Your Dog to Cope with Being Alone
Dog’s are pack animals, so naturally, they prefer to be with their family – or pack. Some dogs need more help than others in this department – here are some tips to help your dog be more at ease when he is home alone.

• Consider taking your dog through Basic, Intermediate and Advanced Obedience. Though it seems unrelated, it’s amazing to see the difference in anxiety and confidence, when comparing a dog who has a solid obedience foundation, work ethic and sense of purpose, compared to one who doesn’t. Obedience classes aren’t just for “Bad dogs” – getting out and coming to classes with your dog can be a fantastic way to develop a mutual working respect for each other – dog’s who have this type of relationship with their owners tend to have significantly less anxiety related problems at home. 
• Ensure your dog has a predictable routine that includes daily physical and mental exercise and schedules feedings. Structured walks with obedience thrown in (such as sits, downs and stays) are always a good idea – but other “games” like hide and seek that require your dog to think, can do the trick as well. If his mind AND body have been exercised prior to your departure, he is much more likely to be ready to rest and be at ease when you inevitably leave him home alone. Please feel free to contact our training and behavior department for ideas about how to mentally AND physically exercise your dog. 
• Do you have what some call a “Velcro dog”? – that is, a dog that tends to follow you around everywhere. Help him learn that he can survive with out being glued to your side by making a tether in the room you spend the most time in – like the kitchen or family room. Attach the tether to a sturdy piece of furniture like the Sofa leg. Attach the tether to your dog’s flat collar (DO NOT tether him any corrective device like a prong collar or check chain) and give him a stuffed Kong or other highly desirable toy. Sit near him while you watch tv, read, check e-mails etc…ad periodically get up and leave the room for short periods of time – like to get a glass of water, or go to the bathroom. By tethering him, and removing his ability to follow you from room to room, he will see that when you leave, you don’t leave for long and you always come back. **Remember to be “random” in your departures from the room, so as to be careful not to cue him that you’re about to leave. Also, ignore him for just a moment when you come back – don’t make a big deal – once you settle back down to what you were doing, you may offer soft, genuine praise. 
• If you have gone through the steps of crate training your dog, and are leaving him crated while you are out of the house, develop a habit of crating your dog about 10 minutes prior to your departure and leave him in the crate for 10 minutes after you get home (this will also help your dog get out of (or not develop) the habit of going totally bonkers when you get home and are trying to get settled. Also, when you give your dogs lots of attention just prior to leaving and right when you arrive home, it can seem like a bigger void when you are gone – essentially you are making departures and arrivals a “big deal” – when they really shouldn’t be!
• Work to minimize differences between short departures and long ones.
• Sometimes leaving a radio or TV on quietly (only if these are normally on when you are home) as well as a piece of your unwashed clothing near the crate will help your dog feel more comfortable being alone, if it sounds and/or smells like your are home.